The Fashioned Body provides a wide-ranging and original overview of fashion and dress from an historical and sociological perspective. Where once fashion was seen as marginal, it has now entered into core economic discourse focused around ideas about ‘cultural’ and ‘creative’ work as a major driver of developed economies. With a new preface and new material on the evolving fashion industry, this second edition gives a clear summary of the theories surrounding the role and function of fashion in modern society. Entwistle examines how fashion plays a crucial role in the formation of modern identity through its articulation of the body, gender and sexuality. The book offers a much needed synthesis between the literature on fashion and dress, and the sociology of the body, offering an updated critique of the issues raised in the first edition. Entwistle shows how an understanding of fashion and dress requires an understanding of the meanings acquired by the body in culture since it is the body that fashion speaks to and which is dressed in almost all social situations and encounters. She argues that while fashion refers to a specific system of dress originating in the west, all cultures ‘dress’ the body in the same way, making it a crucial feature of social order. Drawing on the work of theorists, the book offers insights into the connections that need to be made between the body, fashion and dress. The Fashioned Body will be an invaluable resource for anyone interested in the social role of fashion and dress in modern culture.
Fashion, Dress and Social Theory
Author: Joanne Entwistle
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons
Category: Business & Economics
Was ist Mode? Wozu Mode? Seit Jahrhunderten erklären Theoretiker und Theoretikerinnen auf unterschiedlichste Weise dieses facettenreiche Phänomen, das die modernen Gesellschaften prägt wie kaum ein anderes. Der Reader versammelt eine repräsentative Auswahl von modetheoretischen Originaltexten vom 18. Jahrhundert bis in die Gegenwart, die mode- und diskursgeschichtlich eingeordnet und erläutert werden. Der Band ist ein unverzichtbares Arbeitsbuch für Studium, Lehre, Forschung und Praxis.
Klassische Texte aus vier Jahrhunderten
Author: Gertrud Lehnert,Alicia Kühl,Katja Weise
Publisher: transcript Verlag
This beautifully illustrated book conveys the centrality of costume to live performance. Finding associations between contemporary practices and historical manifestations, costume is explored in six thematic chapters, examining the transformative ritual of costuming; choruses as reflective of society; the grotesque, transgressive costume; the female sublime as emancipation; costume as sculptural art in motion; and the here-and-now as history. Viewing the material costume as a crucial aspect in the preparation, presentation and reception of live performance, the book brings together costumed performances through history. These range from ancient Greece to modern experimental productions, from medieval theatre to modernist dance, from the 'fashion plays' to contemporary Shakespeare, marking developments in both culture and performance. Revealing the relationship between dress, the body and human existence, and acknowledging a global as well as an Anglo and Eurocentric perspective, this book shows costume's ability to cross both geographical and disciplinary borders. Through it, we come to question the extent to which the material costume actually co-authors the performance itself, speaking of embodied histories, states of being and never-before imagined futures, which come to life in the temporary space of the performance. With a contribution by Melissa Trimingham, University of Kent, UK
Materiality, Culture, and the Body
Author: Donatella Barbieri
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
This 2007 volume reveals how a first European identity was forged from the fifteenth to the seventeenth centuries. Cultural exchange played a central role in the elites' fashioning of self. The cultures they exchanged and often integrated with included palaces, dresses and jewellery but also gestures and dances.
Author: Robert Muchembled,William Monter
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
The Handbook of Fashion Studies identifies an innovative spectrum of thematic approaches, key strands and interdisciplinary concepts that continue to push forward the boundaries of fashion studies. The book is divided into seven sections: Fashion, Identity and Difference; Spaces of Fashion; Fashion and Materiality; Fashion, Agency and Policy; Science, Technology and New fashion; Fashion and Time and, Sustainable Fashion in a Globalised world. Each section consists of approximately four essays authored by established researchers in the field from the UK, USA, Netherlands, Sweden, Canada and Australia. The essays are written by international subject specialists who each engage with their section's theme in the light of their own discipline and provide clear case-studies to further knowledge on fashion. This consistency provides clarity and permits comparative analysis. The handbook will be essential reading for students of fashion as well as professionals in the industry.
Author: Sandy Black,Amy de la Haye,Joanne Entwistle,Regina Root,AgnÃ ̈s Rocamora,Helen Thomas
Publisher: A&C Black
Costume and Cinema: Dress Codes in Popular Film presents an overview of the literature on film costume, together with a series of detailed case studies which highlight how costume is a key signifier in film texts. Sarah Street demonstrates how costume relates in fundamental ways to the study of film narrative and mise-en-scène, in some cases constituting a language of its own. In particular the book foregrounds the related issues of adaptation and embodiment in a variety of different genres and investigates this under-explored area through extensive analysis of popular films including The Talented Mr Ripley, Desperately Seeking Susan, and The Matrix.
Dress Codes in Popular Film
Author: Sarah Street
Publisher: Wallflower Press
Category: Performing Arts
Agnes Rocamora: High Fashion and Pop Fashion: The Symbolic Production of Fashion in Le Monde and The Guardian Tina Mai Chen: Dressing for the Party: Clothing, Citizenship, and Gender-formation in Mao’s China Mary Lynn Stewart with Nancy Janovicek: Slimming the Female Body? Re-evaluating Dress, Corsets, and Physical Culture in France, 1890s-1930s Paoloa Zamperini: Clothes that Matter: Fashioning Modernity in Late Qing Novels Thomas Humery: Exhibition Review: Behind the Outfit: The ‘Wardrobes’ Exhibition at the Musée de la Mode et du Textile John Harvey: Book Review: Venus and Furs: The Cultural Politics of Fur by Julia V. Emberley Adam Briggs: Book Review: The Fashioned Body: Fashion, Dress and Modern Social Theory by Joanne Enwistle Judith Clark: Book Review: Defining Dress as Object, Meaning and Identity ed. Amy de la Haye and Elizabeth Wilson Announcement: Vivienne Westwood: The collection of Romilly McAlpine, Liverpool Museum, 25 May-30 September 2001 Announcement: Nineteenth Century Studies Call for Papers: Uniforms for Civilians: On the History of Uniforms as Symbolic Communication
The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture
Author: Valerie Steele
Publisher: Bloomsbury Academic
Combines ethnographic research with personal stories to provide a portrait of the daily lives of people who defy or violate the rules and conventions of the social norms regarding body modification, piercings and tattoos.
Challenging the Norms, Breaking the Rules
Author: Chris Bobel,Samantha Kwan
Publisher: Vanderbilt University Press
Category: Social Science
Rosy Aindow examines the way fiction registered and responded to the emergence of a modern fashion industry during the period 1870-1914. She traces the role played by dress in the formation of literary identities, with specific attention to the way that an engagement with fashionable clothing was understood to be a means of class emulation. The expansion of the fashion industry in the second half of the nineteenth century is generally considered to have had a significant impact on the way in which lower income groups, in particular, encountered clothing: many were able to participate in fashionable consumption for the first time. Remaining alert to the historical specificity of these events, this study argues that the cultural perception of the expansion of the industry - namely a predominantly bourgeois fear that it would result in a democratisation in dress - had a profound effect on the way in which fashion was approached by contemporary writers. Drawing on existing cultural analogies that associated fashion with women and artifice, it concludes that women were particularly implicated in fictional accounts of class mobility. This transgression applied not only to women who wore fashionable clothing, but to those working in the fashion industry itself. An allusion to fashion has a socio-specific meaning, one which gained a new potency in late nineteenth- and early twentieth-century narratives as a vehicle for the expression of class anxieties.
Author: Rosy Aindow
Category: Business & Economics
Combines fashion theory with approaches from literature, art, advertising, music, media studies, material studies, and sociology to consider the function of fashion within popular culture in Europe, Australia, and the United States.
Literature, Media and Contemporary Studies
Author: Joseph Hancock,Toni Johnson-Woods,Vicki Karaminas
Publisher: Intellect Books
The fashion model's hold on popular consciousness is undeniable. How did models emerge as such powerful icons in modern consumer culture? This volume brings together cutting-edge articles on fashion models, examining modelling through race, class and gender, as well as its structure as an aesthetic marketplace within the global fashion economy. Essays include treatments of the history of fashion modelling, exploring how concerns about racial purity and the idealization of light skinned black women shaped the practice of modelling in its early years. Other essays examine how models have come to define femininity through consumer culture. While modelling's global nature is addressed throughout, chapters deal specifically with model markets in Australia and Tokyo, where nationalist concerns colour what is considered a pretty face. It also considers how models glamorize consumption through everyday activities, and neoliberal labour forms via reality TV. With commentaries from industry professionals who experienced the cultural juggernaut of the supermodels, the final essay situates their impact within the rise of brand culture and the globalization of fashion markets since 1990. Accessible and highly engaging, Fashioning Models is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion and related disciplines.
Image, Text and Industry
Author: Joanne Entwistle,Elizabeth Wissinger
Publisher: A&C Black
Author: Gaby Mentges,Nina Schack,Heike Jenss,Heide Nixdorff
Category: Textile fabrics
Dieser Band diskutiert aktuelle und zukünftige Steuerungsoptionen der Kreativwirtschaft. Internationale Experten aus Forschung und Praxis stellen das Orientierungswissen zu neuen Institutionen, Wissensmanagement und vernetzten transnationalen Arbeitsformen vor und problematisieren die Frage der Steuerbarkeit dieses aufstrebenden Handlungsfeldes. Erstmalig für den deutschen Sprachraum werden substanzielle, passgenaue und tragfähige Verständnisse und Perspektiven zur Beförderung der Kreativwirtschaft präsentiert, kritisch bewertet sowie in einen übergeordneten fachlichen wie gesellschaftspolitischen Zusammenhang gestellt.
Diagnosen und Handlungsoptionen
Author: Bastian Lange,Ares Kalandides,Birgit Stöber,Inga Wellmann
Publisher: transcript Verlag
Category: Political Science
Design, Manufacturing, and Image-making in the Fashion Industry
Author: Juliet Ash,Lee Wright
Category: Clothing and dress.
Manche radikalen Denker glauben, man müsse lediglich für mehr soziale Gerechtigkeit sorgen, um auch mehr gegenseitigen Respekt zwischen den Menschen zu wecken. Aber ist das überhaupt realistisch? Zieht Selbstachtung nicht automatisch mangelnden Respekt gegenüber denjenigen nach sich, die im unbarmherzigen sozialen und wirtschaftlichen Wettbewerb die Benachteiligten sind? Bei der Suche nach Antworten greift Sennett auch auf seine eigene Lebensgeschichte zurück: Aufgewachsen in einem Ghetto von Chicago, gelang ihm zunächst mit Hilfe der Musik und dann des Studiums in Harvard der soziale Aufstieg. Erneut erweist sich Sennett als konstruktiver kritischer Geist mit Weitblick, als jemand, der mit Hilfe anschaulicher Beispiele grundlegende gesellschaftliche Veränderungen benennt.
Author: Richard Sennett
Publisher: ebook Berlin Verlag
Category: Political Science
From where--and what--does water come? How did it become the key to life in the universe? Water from Heaven presents a state-of-the-art portrait of the science of water, recounting how the oxygen needed to form H2O originated in the nuclear reactions in the interiors of stars, asking whether microcomets may be replenishing our world's oceans, and explaining how the Moon and planets set ice-age rhythms by way of slight variations in Earth's orbit and rotation. The book then takes the measure of water today in all its states, solid and gaseous as well as liquid. How do the famous El Niño and La Niña events in the Pacific affect our weather? What clues can water provide scientists in search of evidence of climate changes of the past, and how does it complicate their predictions of future global warming? Finally, Water from Heaven deals with the role of water in the rise and fall of civilizations. As nations grapple over watershed rights and pollution controls, water is poised to supplant oil as the most contested natural resource of the new century. The vast majority of water "used" today is devoted to large-scale agriculture and though water is a renewable resource, it is not an infinite one. Already many parts of the world are running up against the limits of what is readily available. Water from Heaven is, in short, the full story of water and all its remarkable properties. It spans from water's beginnings during the formation of stars, all the way through the origin of the solar system, the evolution of life on Earth, the rise of civilization, and what will happen in the future. Dealing with the physical, chemical, biological, and political importance of water, this book transforms our understanding of our most precious, and abused, resource. Robert Kandel shows that water presents us with a series of crucial questions and pivotal choices that will change the way you look at your next glass of water.
Definitions, Concepts, Contexts
Author: Matthew Rampley
Unser Leben wird von Märkten bestimmt. Sie sind für die kapitalistischen Volkswirtschaften weltweit konstitutiv und haben von Anfang an viele öffentliche Debatten ausgelöst. Während Märkte für die Einen der unübertroffene Modus der Handlungskoordination sind, werden sie von Anderen als Quelle vieler gesellschaftlicher Übel eingestuft und bekämpft. Dieses Buch vereint das Wissen über Märkte von Soziologie, Ökonomie und Anthropologie und untersucht systematisch die verschiedenen Formen von Märkten, denen wir täglich in unserem Leben begegnen.
Author: Patrik Aspers
Category: Social Science
eine ökonomische Untersuchung der Institutionen
Author: Thorstein Veblen