Essence and Alchemy

A Book of Perfume

Author: Mandy Aftel

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 1408863561

Category: Art

Page: 256

View: 6914

As long as there has been passion, there has been perfume. Wealthy Romans used to scent their doves while in Shakespeare's time, a woman in love would place a peeled apple into her armpit to saturate it with her scent and then present it to her lover. Essence And Alchemy resurrects the social and metaphysical legacy that is entwined with the evolution of perfumery, from the dramas of the spice trade to the quests of the alchemists. Aftel tracks scent through the boudoir and the bath and into the sanctums of worship, and along the way teaches us the art of perfume-making, including many of her own recipes, offering insights on the relationship of scent to solitude, sex, and soul.

Essence and Alchemy

A Natural History of Perfume

Author: Mandy Aftel

Publisher: Gibbs Smith Publishers

ISBN: 9781586857028

Category: Health & Fitness

Page: 246

View: 8631

Renowned perfumer Mandy Aftel explores the primal nature and fundamental importance of aroma in everyday life, teaching people about the nature of smell and the idea of "olfactory consciousness" in Essence and Alchemy: A Natural History of Perfume.


The Secret Life of Scent

Author: Mandy Aftel

Publisher: Penguin

ISBN: 1101614684

Category: Business & Economics

Page: 288

View: 3167

Winner of the 2016 Perfumed Plume Award The “Alice Waters of American natural perfume” ( celebrates our most potent sense, through five rock stars of the fragrant world. Look out for Mandy Aftel's new book, The Art of Flavor, on sale in August! Mandy Aftel is widely acclaimed as a trailblazer in natural perfumery. Over two decades of sourcing the finest aromatic ingredients from all over the world and creating artisanal fragrances, she has been an evangelist for the transformative power of scent. In Fragrant, through five major players in the epic of aroma, she explores the profound connection between our sense of smell and the appetites that move us, give us pleasure, make us fully alive. Cinnamon, queen of the Spice Route, touches our hunger for the unknown, the exotic, the luxurious. Mint, homegrown the world over, speaks to our affinity for the familiar, the native, the authentic. Frankincense, an ancient incense ingredient, taps into our longing for transcendence, while ambergris embodies our unquenchable curiosity. And exquisite jasmine exemplifies our yearning for beauty, both evanescent and enduring. In addition to providing a riveting initiation into the history, natural history, and philosophy of scent, Fragrant imparts the essentials of scent literacy and includes recipes for easy-to-make fragrances and edible, drinkable, and useful concoctions that reveal the imaginative possibilities of creating with—and reveling in—aroma. Vintage line drawings make for a volume that will be a treasured gift as well as a great read.

Scents and Sensibility

Perfume in Victorian Literary Culture

Author: Catherine Maxwell

Publisher: Oxford University Press

ISBN: 0198701756


Page: 400

View: 7254

This lively, accessible book is the first to explore Victorian literature through scent and perfume, presenting an extensive range of well-known and unfamiliar texts in intriguing and imaginative new ways that make us re-think literature's relation with the senses. Concentrating on aesthetic and decadent authors, Scents and Sensibility introduces a rich selection of poems, essays, and fiction, exploring these texts with reference to both the little-known cultural history of perfume use and the appreciation of natural fragrance in Victorian Britain. It shows how scent and perfume are used to convey not merely moods and atmospheres but the nuances of the aesthete or decadent's carefully cultivated identity, personality, or sensibility. A key theme is the emergence of the olfactif, the cultivated individual with a refined sense of smell, influentially represented by the poet and critic Algernon Charles Swinburne, who is emulated by a host of canonical and less well-known aesthetic and decadent successors such as Walter Pater, Edmund Gosse, John Addington Symonds, Lafcadio Hearn, Michael Field, Oscar Wilde, Arthur Symons, Mark Andre Raffalovich, Theodore Wratislaw, and A. Mary F. Robinson. This book explores how scent and perfume pervade the work of these authors in many different ways, signifying such diverse things as style, atmosphere, influence, sexuality, sensibility, spirituality, refinement, individuality, the expression of love and poetic creativity, and the aura of personality, dandyism, modernity, and memory. A coda explores the contrasting twentieth-century responses of Virginia Woolf and Compton Mackenzie to the scent of Victorian literature.

Past Scents

Historical Perspectives on Smell

Author: Jonathan Reinarz

Publisher: University of Illinois Press

ISBN: 0252096029

Category: History

Page: 280

View: 5513

In this comprehensive and engaging volume, medical historian Jonathan Reinarz offers a historiography of smell from ancient to modern times. Synthesizing existing scholarship in the field, he shows how people have relied on their olfactory sense to understand and engage with both their immediate environments and wider corporal and spiritual worlds. This broad survey demonstrates how each community or commodity possesses, or has been thought to possess, its own peculiar scent. Through the meanings associated with smells, osmologies develop--what cultural anthropologists have termed the systems that utilize smells to classify people and objects in ways that define their relations to each other and their relative values within a particular culture. European Christians, for instance, relied on their noses to differentiate Christians from heathens, whites from people of color, women from men, virgins from harlots, artisans from aristocracy, and pollution from perfume. This reliance on smell was not limited to the global North. Around the world, Reinarz shows, people used scents to signify individual and group identity in a morally constructed universe where the good smelled pleasant and their opposites reeked. With chapters including "Heavenly Scents," "Fragrant Lucre," and "Odorous Others," Reinarz's timely survey is a useful and entertaining look at the history of one of our most important but least-understood senses.

The Problem with Pleasure

Modernism and Its Discontents

Author: Laura Frost

Publisher: Columbia University Press

ISBN: 0231526466

Category: Literary Criticism

Page: 304

View: 7319

Aldous Huxley decried "the horrors of modern 'pleasure,'" or the proliferation of mass produced, widely accessible entertainment that could degrade or dull the mind. He and his contemporaries, including James Joyce, T. S. Eliot, Gertrude Stein, D. H. Lawrence, and Jean Rhys, sought to radically redefine pleasure, constructing arduous and indirect paths to delight through their notoriously daunting work. Laura Frost follows these experiments in the art of unpleasure, connecting modernism's signature characteristics, such as irony, allusiveness, and obscurity, to an ambitious attempt to reconfigure bliss. In The Problem with Pleasure, Frost draws upon a wide variety of materials, linking interwar amusements, such as the talkies, romance novels, the Parisian fragrance Chanel no. 5, and the exotic confection Turkish Delight, to the artistic play of Joyce, Lawrence, Stein, Rhys, and others. She considers pop cultural phenomena and the rise of celebrities such as Rudolph Valentino and Gypsy Rose Lee against contemporary sociological, scientific, and philosophical writings on leisure and desire. Throughout her study, Frost incorporates recent scholarship on material and visual culture and vernacular modernism, recasting the period's high/low, elite/popular divides and formal strategies as efforts to regulate sensual and cerebral experience. Capturing the challenging tensions between these artists' commitment to innovation and the stimulating amusements they denounced yet deployed in their writing, Frost calls attention to the central role of pleasure in shaping interwar culture.


Die erstaunliche Wissenschaft der kulinarischen Verführung

Author: Charles Spence

Publisher: C.H.Beck

ISBN: 3406720374

Category: Psychology

Page: 352

View: 5677

Wie wird ein Essen zu einem unvergesslichen Erlebnis? Warum gibt es keinen blauen Wein? Weshalb schmecken Desserts von weißen Tellern süßer als von schwarzen? Charles Spence geht diesen und vielen weiteren Fragen kenntnisreich und humorvoll auf den Grund. Hierbei kann er sich auf zahlreiche Experimente stützen, mit denen er die Geschmackswahrnehmung erforschte. Wenn wir Nahrung aufnehmen, schmecken wir nicht nur die Geschmacksrichtungen süß, bitter, sauer und salzig. Nein, wir essen mit allen unseren Sinnen: Unser kulinarisches Vergnügen entsteht im Kopf, nicht im Mund. So spielen für das Erleben eines perfekten Dinners das Gewicht des Bestecks, die Farbe und Form des Geschirrs sowie die Art der Hintergrundmusik eine entscheidende Rolle. Das vorliegende Buch weckt unser Bewusstsein dafür, wie dieses Zusammenspiel von Farben, Formen, Gerüchen und Klängen auf uns wirkt und wie stark wir durch diese Faktoren manipulierbar sind – Erkenntnisse, die sich die Lebensmittelindustrie schon lange zunutze macht.

Der Duft des Bösen


Author: Ruth Rendell

Publisher: Blanvalet Verlag

ISBN: 364115135X

Category: Fiction

Page: N.A

View: 6832

Eine grausame Mordserie erschüttert die Londoner Öffentlichkeit: Bereits drei junge Frauen sind tot aufgefunden worden. Und der Täter behält von seinen Opfern immer einen besonderen persönlichen Gegenstand – offenbar als Souvenir. Als sich bei einer der Ermordeten eine Bisswunde im Nackenbereich findet, hat die Boulevardpresse endlich ihre Schlagzeile: Ab sofort nennt man den unheimlichen Mörder nur noch »den Rottweiler«. In Inez' Londoner Antiquitätenladen spielen besondere Gegenstände ebenfalls eine große Rolle: Hier findet man einen ausgestopften Jaguar ebenso wie eine griechische Götterstudie oder einen raffinierten Blumenständer. Und mit den teils verrückten, teils verliebten, teils steinreichen Kunden trudeln immer wieder neue Informationen zu den Morden ein. Doch dann berührt sich Inez' Leben mit dem Treiben des Mörders plötzlich auf eine Art und Weise, die ihr nicht geheuer sein kann ...

Tin House

Author: N.A

Publisher: N.A


Category: Literature, Modern

Page: N.A

View: 9872


Ein Führer durch die Welt der Düfte

Author: Jean-Claude Ellena

Publisher: C.H.Beck

ISBN: 3406639291

Category: History

Page: 173

View: 5258

Der Chefparfumeur von Hermès persönlich öffnet die Tür, um uns einen Blick hinter die Kulissen der Parfumhersteller werfen zu lassen. Wie werden Parfums kreiert? Woher kommen die Aromen, wie werden sie hergestellt? Wie entwickelt man ein Duft-Gedächtnis? Was sind die wichtigsten Parfums und wann wurden sie geschaffen? Ein unterhaltsamer Führer durch die glamouröse Welt der Düfte.

Veuve Clicquot

die Geschichte eines Champagner-Imperiums und der Frau, die es regierte

Author: Tilar J. Mazzeo

Publisher: N.A

ISBN: 9783423346740


Page: 319

View: 1872

Wie die Franzosen die Liebe erfanden

Neunhundert Jahre Leidenschaft

Author: Marilyn Yalom

Publisher: Ullstein eBooks

ISBN: 384370600X

Category: History

Page: 448

View: 5900

Neurotisch, leidenschaftlich, höfisch: Die Franzosen kennen fast so viele Spielarten der Liebe wie Käsesorten. Von den Minnesängern bis Dominique Strauss-Kahn: Immer wieder verblüffen sie den Rest der Welt. Wurde die Liebe in Frankreich erfunden? Marilyn Yalom, die große Romanistin und Feministin der ersten Stunde, geht dieser unterhaltsamen Frage anhand berühmter Meisterwerke der Literatur nach – offenherzig, fundiert und mit viel Humor. Nicht umsonst sind Wörter wie Rendezvous, Tête-à-Tête, Ménage-à-trois, Amour fou überall auf der Welt ein Begriff. Von der raffiniert-bösartigen Erotik der Gefährlichen Liebschaften bis zur berechnenden Sinnlichkeit einer Madame Bovary, von der offenen Ehe zwischen Sartre und Beauvoir bis zum exotischen Liebhaber der Marguerite Duras – am Ende steht immer die uralte Frage: Was macht die Liebeaus? Trieb oder Gefühl? Seele oder Intellekt? Für Kenner der Literatur ist dieses Buch ein Fest, bei dem man alte Freunde unter neuen Vorzeichen wiedertrifft. Alle anderen werden große Lust aufs Lesen bekommen.