The American look

fashion, sportswear and the image of women in 1930s and 1940s New York

Author: Rebecca Arnold

Publisher: I B Tauris & Co Ltd

ISBN: 9781860647635

Category: Design

Page: 288

View: 4535

Drawing on a wonderful array of sources, from fashion magazines such as Harper's Bazaar and Vogue to department store records and surviving garments, The American Look presents a rich and multi-faceted exploration of the development of a distinct New York fashion style in the 1930s and 1940s. Tracing the growth of the sportswear fashion industry from its functional origins to its adoption as casual wear for all occasions by career women and housewives alike, author Rebecca Arnold shows how New York's emergent style in the interwar period was both dynamic and modern--much like the city itself. She argues that its essence was expressive of the American ideal of athletic, long-limbed figures and related to theories of body image, gender and class; that its designers such as Claire McCardell, Clare Potter and Tina Leser, were themselves embodiments of the modern, active woman; and that its style was connected not just to ideals of patriotism and democracy, but to notions of cleanliness and hygiene. Beautifully illustrated, The American Look offers a unique insight into fashion, modernity and ideas of Americanness in the twentieth century.

The Hidden History of American Fashion

Rediscovering 20th-century Women Designers

Author: Nancy Deihl

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 1350000485

Category: Design

Page: 272

View: 8032

This book is the first in-depth exploration of the revolutionary designers who defined American fashion in its emerging years and helped build an industry with global impact, yet have been largely forgotten. Focusing on female designers, the authors reclaim a place in history for the women who created not only for celebrities and socialites, but for millions of fashion-conscious customers across the United States. From one of America's first couturiers, Jessie Franklin Turner, to Zelda Wynn Valdes, the book captures the lost histories of the luminaries who paved the way in the world of American fashion design. This fully illustrated collection takes us from Hollywood to Broadway, from sportswear to sustainable fashion, and explores important crossovers between film, theater, and fashion. Uncovering fascinating histories of the design pioneers we should know about, the book enlarges the prevailing narrative of fashion history and will be an important reference for fashion students, historians, costume curators, and fashion enthusiasts alike.

Dress Casual

How College Students Redefined American Style

Author: Deirdre Clemente

Publisher: UNC Press Books

ISBN: 1469614073

Category: Education

Page: 208

View: 3452

Dress Casual: How College Students Redefined American Style

Culture, Costume and Dress

The Proceedings of the 1st International Conference

Author: Anne Boultwood,Sian Hindle

Publisher: Gold Word Publishing

ISBN: 1909379263

Category: Design

Page: 240

View: 8332

p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 13.0px Helvetica} The Proceedings of the 1st International Conference - Culture, Costume and Dress held at Birmingham City University, England in 2017. Contents include Exhibits, Keynotes and Papers. Thirty five papers in the following themes - Costume as Character, Costume in Art and Literature, Cultural and Historical Perspectives; Fashion: Innovation and Commerce, Fashion Consumption, Inside Out: The Actor’s Experience, Jewellery at the Boundary, National Costume, Performing Bodies. Illustrations throughout.

Kit: Fashioning the Sporting Body

Author: Jean Williams

Publisher: Routledge

ISBN: 1317413962

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 208

View: 6558

This is the first edited collection of its kind to analyse the distinct but overlapping topics of dress, costume, sport and leisure history. For researchers of bodily adornment and movement, sport and costume history are both primarily concerned with industrial practice and embodied experience. The ways in which bodies are adorned, embellished and clothed (or revealed) highlights the hybrid nature of dress history, encompassing as it does the everyday clothing solutions of the mass of people and the unusual or more ceremonial aspects of costume, as well as elite high fashion. Although this is as yet an under-researched area, there are an increasing number of fashion and clothing undergraduate and postgraduate courses that specialise in sport and leisurewear. This publication is intended to give an introductory overview of the historical and contemporary issues as it does for the growing number of sport marketing and sports studies courses concerned with dress, costume history and branding. This book was published as a special issue of Sport in History.

Hollywood Before Glamour

Fashion in American Silent Film

Author: M. Tolini Finamore

Publisher: Springer

ISBN: 023038949X

Category: Performing Arts

Page: 246

View: 2865

This exploration of fashion in American silent film offers fresh perspectives on the era preceding the studio system, and the evolution of Hollywood's distinctive brand of glamour. By the 1910s, the moving image was an integral part of everyday life and communicated fascinating, but as yet un-investigated, ideas and ideals about fashionable dress.

A Cultural History of the Nurse's Uniform

Author: Christina Bates

Publisher: Canadian Mus of Civilization

ISBN: N.A

Category: Social Science

Page: 270

View: 8897

This first and only in-depth analysis of the attire worn by the largest workforce in the health care system explores the role of the nurse's uniform in creating nursing identity for over a hundred years. The introduction of the nurse's uniform in the late nineteenth century was part of a strategy to legitimize North America's first nursing schools. At first varied and experimental in design, by the early 20th century the uniform was drawing on elements of fashionable, scientific, military and ecclesiastical wear, and had standardized into a blue or pink dress worn with stiffly starched white cap, bib, and apron. This remarkable outfit lasted until the 1970s, when educational and societal changes brought about its demise, and practical scrubs became the most common nursing apparel. Seen through the lens of age, gender, class and race, this book shows how the uniform was an active participant in the changing culture of nursing work and thought. Richly illustrated with images of actual garments and over 150 compelling period photographs, cartoons and drawings, the book explore the uniform within the contexts of hospital, community, nursing school, and residence. A Cultural History of the Nurse's Uniform will appeal to nurses, historians and scholars of dress. "Uniforms are rich in meaning, and Christina Bates does an excellent job of teasing out those meanings. Wisely, she has concentrated on the evidence of actual artifacts, as well as a wide variety of visual and written sources. This spirited and scholarly book makes a significant contribution to the study of dress and society." -Jane Farrell-Beck, Iowa State University "This is a very important book that places the nurse's uniform in the cultural context of school, residence and practice settings. The role of the uniform in nurses' identity is an aspect of nursing that has never before been fully considered. A must-read for historians of nursing. A Cultural History of the Nurse's Uniform will bring back memories for nurses who wore the uniform, and will provide insight to those nurses who came after." -Dr. Meryn Stuart, University of Ottawa

When the Girls Came Out to Play

The Birth of American Sportswear

Author: Patricia Campbell Warner

Publisher: Univ of Massachusetts Press

ISBN: 9781558495494

Category: Crafts & Hobbies

Page: 292

View: 8612

Presenting a study of the evolution of American women's clothing, this book traces the history of modern sportswear as a universal style that broke down traditional gender roles. It shows that behind this development was a growing interest in sports that was nurtured by the establishment of schools of higher education for women.

The American look

fashion, sportswear and the image of women in 1930s and 1940s New York

Author: Rebecca Arnold

Publisher: I B Tauris & Co Ltd

ISBN: 9781860647635

Category: Design

Page: 288

View: 5465

Drawing on a wonderful array of sources, from fashion magazines such as Harper's Bazaar and Vogue to department store records and surviving garments, The American Look presents a rich and multi-faceted exploration of the development of a distinct New York fashion style in the 1930s and 1940s. Tracing the growth of the sportswear fashion industry from its functional origins to its adoption as casual wear for all occasions by career women and housewives alike, author Rebecca Arnold shows how New York's emergent style in the interwar period was both dynamic and modern--much like the city itself. She argues that its essence was expressive of the American ideal of athletic, long-limbed figures and related to theories of body image, gender and class; that its designers such as Claire McCardell, Clare Potter and Tina Leser, were themselves embodiments of the modern, active woman; and that its style was connected not just to ideals of patriotism and democracy, but to notions of cleanliness and hygiene. Beautifully illustrated, The American Look offers a unique insight into fashion, modernity and ideas of Americanness in the twentieth century.

The Monument

Art and Vulgarity in Saddam Hussein's Iraq

Author: Kanan Makiya

Publisher: I.B.Tauris

ISBN: 9781860649660

Category: Architecture

Page: 153

View: 726

In Baghdad, an enormous monument nearly twice the size of the Arc de Triomphe towers over the city. Two huge forearms emerge from the ground, clutching two swords that clash overhead. Those arms are enlarged casts of those of Saddam Hussein, showing every bump and follicle. The "Victory Arch" celebrates a victory over Iran (in their 8-year long war) that never happened. The Monument is a study of the interplay between art and politics, of how culture, normally an unquestioned good, can play into the hands of power with devastating effects. Kanan Makiya uses the culture invented by Saddam Hussein as a window into the nature of totalitarianism and shows how art can become the weapon of dictatorship.

Claire Mccardell

Author: Kohle Yohannan

Publisher: Harry N Abrams Incorporated

ISBN: N.A

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 151

View: 1910

This is a biography of fashion designer Claire McCardell (1905-1958), the pioneering creator of American sportswear, the wearable, useful and affordable alternative to Paris fashion. The authors show how McCardell's comfort first ideology fostered pride and belief in American fashion, and how she favoured self wrap-and-tie styles rather than corsetry, shoulder pads, and heavy construction. In this illustrated tribute McCardell is pictured wearing her own clothes, and specially commissioned photographs of McCardell garments from the archives of New York's Fashion Institute of Technology reveal her craftmanship.

Fashion Is Spinach

How to Beat the Fashion Racket

Author: Elizabeth Hawes

Publisher: Courier Dover Publications

ISBN: 0486797317

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 352

View: 848

"After working as a stylist in Paris, Elizabeth Hawes launched one of the first American design houses in Depression-era New York. Her witty and astute memoir offers an insider's critique of the fashion scene during the 1920s and '30s. Hawes denounces the industry's predatory practices, advising readers to reject ever-changing fads in favor of comfortable, durable, flattering attire"--

Contemporary Chinese America

Immigration, Ethnicity, and Community Transformation

Author: Min Zhou

Publisher: Temple University Press

ISBN: 1592138594

Category: Psychology

Page: 328

View: 4927

A sociologist of international migration examines the Chinese American experience.

Niche Fashion Magazines

Changing the Shape of Fashion

Author: Ane Lynge-Jorlén

Publisher: I.B.Tauris

ISBN: 1786721791

Category: History

Page: 232

View: 7391

Niche fashion magazines speak to a highly fashion-literate, global readership; they mix the codes of style magazines, glossy women’s magazines and art catalogues. They are often produced and read by people engaged in the business of creating fashion taste. Through this business-to-business practice, the niche magazine genre is powerful in shaping the face of fashion. Based on unique analysis of niche fashion magazines and unprecedented access to the making of the respected Danish niche fashion magazine, DANSK, including interviews with its makers and its readers, this book unveils the behind-the-scenes of niche fashion magazines. It pays specific attention to the symbolic and material cultures, values and meanings that are shared across magazine producers and their readers. It is a valuable contribution to the study and practice of fashion journalism, with appeal for students and readers of the increasingly popular high-end glossy magazines.

Fashion's World Cities

Author: Christopher Breward,David Gilbert

Publisher: Berg Publishers

ISBN: 9781845204136

Category: Art

Page: 285

View: 9019

The first book to explore fashion's distinctive relationships with 'world cities' such as Paris, New York, London, Tokyo and Milan.

Dust Bowl Girls

The Inspiring Story of the Team That Barnstormed Its Way to Basketball Glory

Author: Lydia Reeder

Publisher: Algonquin Books

ISBN: 1616206535

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 304

View: 9414

“A thrilling, cinematic story. I loved every minute I spent with these bold, daring women whose remarkable journey is the stuff of American legend.” —Karen Abbott, New York Times bestselling author of Liar, Temptress, Soldier, Spy The Boys in the Boat meets A League of Their Own in this true story of a Depression-era championship women’s team. In the early 1930s, during the worst drought and financial depression in American history, Sam Babb began to dream. Like so many others, this charismatic Midwestern basketball coach wanted a reason to have hope. Traveling from farm to farm near the tiny Oklahoma college where he coached, Babb recruited talented, hardworking young women and offered them a chance at a better life: a free college education in exchange for playing on his basketball team, the Cardinals. Despite their fears of leaving home and the sacrifices that their families would face, the women joined the team. And as Babb coached the Cardinals, something extraordinary happened. These remarkable athletes found a passion for the game and a heartfelt loyalty to one another and their coach--and they began to win. Combining exhilarating sports writing and exceptional storytelling, Dust Bowl Girls takes readers on the Cardinals’ intense, improbable journey all the way to an epic showdown with the prevailing national champions, helmed by the legendary Babe Didrikson. Lydia Reeder captures a moment in history when female athletes faced intense scrutiny from influential figures in politics, education, and medicine who denounced women’s sports as unhealthy and unladylike. At a time when a struggling nation was hungry for inspiration, this unlikely group of trailblazers achieved much more than a championship season.